Santa Croce serves as a gateway for many visitors arriving by train or car yet remains largely residential and less trafficked than neighboring districts. The area blends medieval churches, leafy gardens, and hidden squares with a lived-in feel that reflects Venice beyond the postcard. With its mix of history, understated beauty, and everyday life, Santa Croce offers a more intimate perspective on the city’s layered identity.

Campo Sant’ Angelo

We will begin our walk in San Marco at Campo Sant’Angelo, a quiet square tucked between the lively districts of San Marco and Dorsoduro. Historically a hub for local artisans and merchants, the campo today offers a peaceful contrast to the nearby tourist corridors, with its modest church and shaded benches inviting a moment of calm before we set off.

Traghetto San Tomà Crossing

As we reach the Grand Canal, we’ll board the Traghetto San Tomà, one of the few remaining gondola-style ferries still used by Venetians for quick crossings. These short rides offer a rare opportunity to stand aboard a gondola and experience the Grand Canal as locals have for centuries. From our position on the San Marco side, we’ll cross westward toward San Polo, with several notable palazzi coming into view.

Campo San Toma

After disembarking from the traghetto, we’ll arrive at Campo San Tomà, a modest but lively square in the San Polo district. Historically a hub for artisans and small merchants, the campo today offers a glimpse into everyday Venetian life, with local cafés and shops tucked around its edges. It’s a good spot to pause briefly and orient ourselves before continuing west.

Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Pantalon

Just a few minutes’ walk from Campo San Tomà, we’ll reach the Chiesa di San Pantalon, a parish church with an unassuming exterior that hides one of Venice’s most astonishing artistic treasures. Inside, the ceiling is covered by a massive oil-on-canvas painting—The Martyrdom of Saint Pantaleon—created by Gian Antonio Fumiani over two decades in the late 17th century. It’s considered one of the largest and most dramatic ceiling paintings in Europe, depicting the saint’s ascent to heaven in vivid, theatrical detail. Entry is free, and the church is usually quiet, offering a contemplative break in the walk. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 AM to 12:30 PM and 3:30 PM to 6:30 PM. It is closed on Sundays except for religious services. Entry is free, though a small donation (€1–2) is encouraged to illuminate the ceiling painting.

Chiesa di San Nicolò da Tolentino

Here stands the imposing Chiesa di San Nicolò da Tolentino, a Baroque masterpiece begun in 1590 by Vincenzo Scamozzi and completed in 1714. Its most striking feature is the massive freestanding Corinthian portico—unique in Venice—designed by Andrea Tirali.  Inside, you’ll find richly decorated chapels and notable artworks, including paintings by Johann Liss and Bernardo Strozzi, and the high altar by Baldassare Longhena. The church also houses the tombs of several Venetian doges and a grand Baroque organ built in 1754.  It is open Monday to Friday from 8:30 AM to 12:00 PM and 4:30 PM to 6:30 PM, and Sunday from 4:30 PM to 6:30 PM. Admission is free.

Fondamenta dei Tolentini

Before leaving the area, I suggest taking a brief detour along the Fondamenta dei Tolentini, a quiet canal-side promenade lined with university buildings and local cafés. This stretch offers a glimpse into everyday Venetian life, with students lingering over espresso and locals going about their routines. It’s a peaceful and authentic corner of the city, just steps from the busier Piazzale Roma.

Giardini Papadopoli

From the Tolentini, we’ll continue west along the Rio dei Tolentini, passing the university buildings and crossing the small Ponte dei Tolentini. Just ahead, we’ll enter the leafy Giardini Papadopoli, one of the few public gardens in Venice, located near Piazzale Roma. Originally part of a private estate, they were redesigned in the 19th century and now offer shaded paths, sculptures, and benches. The gardens provide a rare green space in a city dominated by stone and water, making them a refreshing stop. Entry is free, and the gardens are open daily. This is a great place to rest and enjoy a quiet moment surrounded by nature.

Constitution Bridge

After exploring the gardens or the optional walk to view the cruis terminal, we will walk over the Ponte della Costituzione, the newest and most controversial of Venice’s four bridges spanning the Grand Canal. Designed by Santiago Calatrava, this arched truss bridge was inaugurated in 2008 to mark the 60th anniversary of the Italian constitution. It connects Piazzale Roma to the train station and offers panoramic views of the canal. Built with steel, glass, and Istrian stone, its modern design sparked debate for clashing with Venice’s historic architecture and for being difficult to navigate, especially for wheelchair users. Despite its rocky reception, it has become a symbolic gateway for visitors arriving in Venice.

Venezia Santa Lucia

The Venezia Santa Lucia, Venice’s main train station, serves as the city’s connection to the mainland and beyond. It was built in the 1860’s and sits in the Cannaregio district.  The adjacent Piazzale Roma serves as the gateway to the historic center and offers immediate access to the Grand Canal. Each year, over 30 million passengers pass through this station making it one of Italy’s busiest rail hubs and a symbolic gateway to the lagoon city. While functional in design, its location and the views from its steps make it a noteworthy stop on the walk—even if you’re not arriving by train.

Ponte Degli Scalzi

We will resume our walk by crossing the Ponte degli Scalzi, one of only four bridges that span the Grand Canal. Its name—“Bridge of the Barefoot Monks”—comes from the nearby Chiesa degli Scalzi, once home to the Discalced Carmelites. The current bridge, completed in 1934 by engineer Eugenio Miozzi, replaced an earlier Austrian iron bridge from 1858. Built from Istrian stone, its elegant single arch was inspired by the design of the Rialto Bridge. Today, it serves as a vital pedestrian link between Santa Croce and Cannaregio, offering sweeping views of the Grand Canal and the bustling Santa Lucia train station.

Chiesa de San Simion Piccolo

Just after crossing the Ponte degli Scalzi we will pause briefly to admire the Chiesa di San Simeon Piccolo, one of Venice’s most visually striking churches. Located directly across from the Santa Lucia train station, this Neoclassical gem was built between 1718 and 1738 by Giovanni Antonio Scalfarotto. Its design draws inspiration from the Pantheon in Rome, with a grand Corinthian portico and a soaring green copper dome that dominates the skyline. The church’s circular plan and domed rotunda reflect Byzantine influences, while the interior features several chapels adorned with works by Antonio Marinetti and Francesco Polazzo. One of its most unique features is the octagonal crypt, containing frescoes and burial chapels for prominent parishioners.  Though often overlooked by tourists rushing into Venice, San Simeon Piccolo offers a quiet moment of reflection and architectural grandeur right at the city’s gateway. Admission is free, and the church is open daily from 3:30 PM to 7:00 PM.

Calle Ca’ Zusto

From the church, we’ll continue southeast along Fondamenta San Simeon Piccolo, then turn onto Salizada de Ca’ Zusto, a broad paved street. Just ahead, tucked discreetly to the side, is Calle Ca’ Zusto, the narrowest street in Santa Croce. Measuring just 67 centimeters wide (about 2.2 feet), this tiny alley is barely wide enough for a single person to pass through. It’s a delightful photo opportunity and a whimsical reminder of Venice’s medieval street planning. The contrast between the broad salizada and this slender passage adds to its charm.

Chiesa di San Giacomo da Orio

After slipping through the narrow Calle Ca’ Zusto, we’ll continue southeast along Rio Terà del Cristo, a quiet residential street lined with small shops and local homes. Soon, we’ll reach the Ponte del Savio, a charming stone bridge arching over the Rio di San Giacomo. Crossing here brings us directly into Campo San Giacomo where we will find the Chiesa di San Giacomo da Orio, a lesser-known but historically rich church.  Dating back to the 9th century, it features a unique wooden ceiling shaped like a ship’s hull and artworks by Lorenzo Lotto and other Venetian painters. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 10:30 AM to 1:30 PM and 2:30 PM to 5:00 PM. Adult admission is €3. Its quiet location and architectural details make it a rewarding stop for those interested in Venice’s religious and artistic diversity.

Chiesa di San Stae

From Campo San Giacomo da Orio, we’ll head northeast along Salizada San Stae, which leads us directly to the Chiesa di San Stae, facing the Grand Canal. The church’s full name is Sant’Eustachio, but it’s commonly known as San Stae. Built in the early 18th century, its striking Baroque façade was designed by Domenico Rossi and funded by the patrician Doge Alvise Mocenigo. The interior features a series of chapels with works by prominent Venetian painters, including Tiepolo, Ricci, and Piazzetta. Admission is included with the Chorus Pass, and the church’s location along the canal makes it a scenic and worthwhile stop. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and closed on Sundays and major holidays. Adult admission is €3.