The square began to take shape in the 15th century, partly on land reclaimed from the sea. Over time, it grew and evolved: the city walls along the waterfront were demolished in 1906, opening up the space, and in the 18th century, the old Consistorial Houses were replaced by the grand Ayuntamiento (City Hall).

The City Hall’s façade, added in 1865 by architect Manuel García del Álamo, is a striking example of Isabelline Gothic style. Look up at the pediment—you’ll see a bas-relief of Hercules, the mythical founder of Cádiz, once called Gadeira. It’s a fitting symbol for a city that was already ancient when Hannibal passed through during the Second Punic War.

The theater was commissioned by Lucius Cornelius Balbus the Elder, a native of Cádiz and a close ally of Julius Caesar. Balbus and his family dreamed of expanding ancient Gades into a “New City” (Neapolis), and this grand theater was part of that vision.

What makes it special? It’s considered the oldest—and possibly the largest—Roman theater in Spain, with seating for up to 10,000 spectators. Its design features a horseshoe-shaped auditorium, tiered seating, and a distribution gallery beneath, supported by barrel vaults. The outer walls were built from finely cut ashlar stone, a testament to Roman engineering.

Today, you can explore the site through a modern interpretation center, complete with exhibits and glass floors revealing the ruins below. And the best part? Admission is free, making this an easy and fascinating stop on your walk through Cádiz’s history.

Cathedral of Santa Cruz

As we walk back into town towards Cathedral Square, we will pass the Old Cathedral (Santa Cruz). Its story goes way back—it was first built in 1262, after King Alfonso X reclaimed the city. That original structure didn’t survive, though; in 1596, an Anglo-Dutch fleet led by Admiral Edward Howard sacked Cádiz and burned the church to the ground. What you see today was rebuilt by 1602.

Don’t miss the Arco de la Rosa, an old gateway that once led to the Town Castle and the former Plaza de las Tablas, now transformed into this grand square. If you can, please revisit this spot after dark. The lighting on the cathedral is beautiful!

Iglesia de Santiago 

Our next stop is the Church of Santiago, a striking example of Mannerist architecture dating back to 1635. Originally part of a Jesuit college founded in the mid-1500s, the church is all that remains of the complex today. It was designed by Alonso Romero and served as the spiritual heart of the Jesuit school.

The main façade faces Plaza de la Catedral and is framed by 14 paired Ionic pilasters made from Cádiz’s signature oyster stone. The church has two beautiful marble portals in the Mannerist style: one on the main façade, imported from Genoa and set within a large semicircular arch, and another along Calle de Santiago, added in the mid-17th century.

Where the two façades meet, a tower rises in two stages. The lower section mirrors the pilasters of the main façade, while the upper section—added in the 18th century—features an octagonal plan topped with a distinctive bulbous dome in Baroque style. It’s a fascinating blend of architectural periods that reflects Cádiz’s layered history.

But Plaza de las Flores isn’t just about flowers—it’s steeped in history and surrounded by striking architecture. The site once housed the Convent of the Shoeless, and in 1930, it welcomed the Post Office and Telegraph Building, a beautiful example of eclectic regionalist style with glazed ceramic details that contrast with the more traditional Cádiz façades.

As you explore, look out for building number 1, dating back to 1746, with its classic Cádiz Baroque façade framed by pilasters. Another standout is number 12, a neoclassical gem by architect Torcuato Benjumeda, featuring giant Doric pilasters that give it a bold, elegant presence.

Alameda Apodaca Promenade

Next, head to the Alameda Apodaca Promenade. This landscaped walkway runs parallel to the sea and the city wall. It was designed in the regionalist style between 1926 and 1927 by architect Juan Talavera y Heredia. The promenade offers beautiful views of the bay and is a popular spot for both locals and visitors.

During the 18th century, the square underwent a significant urban expansion and became a hub for commercial and religious activities, integrating the current Saint John of God Square (Plaza de San Juan de Dios). It is notable for being the site where the Constitution of 1812 was proclaimed and for being the location of the brutal suppression of the liberal movement of 1820.

The buildings that encircle San Antonio Square are of great interest, showcasing an impressive uniformity of proportions, save for the slender façade of the Church of Sant’Antonio. The Casino Gaditano, built in the 18th century, is a Baroque-style building that underwent a renovation in the Elizabethan style in 1857. Its patio and rooms feature rich Neo-Mudejar decorations created by the Sevillian artist Adolfo Lopez Rodriguez in 1890.

The park is almost trapezoid in shape, and if you enter through Plaza Rocío Jurado, you’ll find yourself on a wide avenue lined with double rows of flowerbeds. These beds frame oyster-stone fountains, all set among tall cypress trees and graceful date palms.

What makes this park special is its incredible variety of plants—over 150 species of exotic trees, palms, and shrubs. Keep an eye out for some real standouts: the Canary Islands dragon tree, the New Zealand pohutukawa, and the quirky Monkey Puzzle Tree from South America.

As you wander, you’ll come across a pond, a small waterfall, and even a little cave. Scattered throughout are sculptures and fountains, including the charming “Children Under the Umbrella”. Other monuments pay tribute to notable figures like botanist José Celestino Mutis, poet José María Pemán, composer Manuel de Falla, and naturalist Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente—plus one commemorating the Battle of Trafalgar.

Playa La Caleta, is the city’s most iconic beach. It’s small but full of character, and it regularly earns the Blue Flag for its clean waters and great facilities.

La Caleta sits between two historic fortresses: Castillo de Santa Catalina and Castillo de San Sebastián. Both are worth a look, but the real eye-catcher is the elegant white building stretching over the sand—the Balneario de Nuestra Señora de la Palma y del Real. Built in the early 1900s, this former spa is now home to the Underwater Archaeology Center of the Andalusian Historical Institute.

This beach has deep roots in Cádiz’s history. In ancient times, it was the natural harbor that connected the two islands of old Gades. The Phoenicians landed their ships here, and archaeologists have uncovered incredible finds beneath its sands—many more likely remain hidden. In a way, this is where Cádiz began.

And if it feels familiar, you might have seen it on screen. La Caleta has appeared in films like Alatriste, Manolete, and even James Bond’s Die Another Day. That famous scene of Halle Berry walking out of the water? Filmed right here—though in the movie, it’s supposed to be Havana!

Across the water, about 3,700 miles away to the west is Washington DC. Playa La Caleta is a lively spot, especially at sunset, so take a moment to enjoy the view before we move on to our next stop.

The tower is part of the Casa Palacio de los Marqueses de Recaño, which today houses the Cádiz Conservatory of Music. Back in the 18th century, when Cádiz was booming as Spain’s gateway to trade with the Americas, the city built over 120 watchtowers to keep an eye on incoming ships. Torre Tavira, built in 1780, was the tallest—and the most important.

Its first watchman, Don Antonio Tavira, gave the tower its name. Inside, you’ll find something special: a Camera Obscura, a fascinating optical device that projects live images of the city onto a viewing surface. It’s a unique way to see Cádiz from a whole new perspective.

The market is alive with more than 170 stalls selling everything from fresh fish and seafood to fruits, vegetables, meats, baked goods, and more. The central pavilion is where the seafood action happens—expect to see an incredible variety of fish straight from the Atlantic. On the left wing, you’ll find the Rincón Gastronómico, a foodie’s paradise offering tapas, sushi, cheeses, and even craft beer. On the right wing, meats and unusual produce await, along with the Gourmet Corner, a highlight for anyone who loves artisanal flavors.

The Mercado Central stands on the site of the old farmers’ market and took its current form in the late 1800s, thanks to architect Torcuato Benjumeda—the same mind behind the Town Hall and the Church of San José. His design? An open-air quadrangle framed by elegant Doric-style columns.